Turkmenistan

Why Turkmenistan

There are destinations that you visit to relax, and others that change you. Turkmenistan is one of them. The seventh most closed country in the world, this 488,000 km² Central Asian giant lives largely outside the international gaze, an isolation that has allowed it to keep intact something rare: an absolute otherness.

The first image that comes to mind is that of the Gates of Hell, the natural gas crater that has been on fire since 1971 and whose orange glow tints the sky of the Karakum for miles around. But Turkmenistan is also Ashgabat, a white marble capital where pharaonic palaces line deserted avenues, like a ghost town built for eternity. It is Merv, one of the largest cities in the medieval world, whose ruins blend into the desert sand. It is Köneürgench, whose hundred-year-old minaret dominates the northern plains.

Travelling here means accepting a strict framework: the letter of invitation, the licensed guide, the checkpoints. But it is also the certainty of crossing a country that very few Europeans have seen, carried by a hospitality that is as sincere as it is unexpected and landscapes of breathtaking mineral and desert beauty.

When to go

The ideal windows to visit Turkmenistan are short, but precious. April and May are the two golden months of spring: temperatures range between 14 and 30°C in Ashgabat, the Karakum Desert is perfectly passable, and a golden light envelops the archaeological sites at the end of the day. September and October offer almost identical conditions with, as a bonus, a late summer light that transcends the desert landscapes at sunset.

Summer (June to August) is to be avoided at all costs for a land tour. With temperatures reaching 37-39°C in Ashgabat and possibly exceeding 50°C in the Karakum, conditions become dangerous, and open-air archaeological sites are impassable in the middle of the day. Winter (December-February) brings cold (frequent night frost, -3°C in January) and the heaviest rains of the year, making the desert tracks muddy.

March and November are honest transition months for more seasoned travelers and tighter budgets.

How much does it cost

Turkmenistan is paradoxical in terms of budget. On site, daily life is very affordable: a meal in a local restaurant costs 8-12 euros, a night in a hotel of decent quality costs 50 euros, and internal transport remains cheap. But the constraint of the organized tour, which is almost unavoidable to obtain the invitation letter, changes the equation.

Specialized agencies in Central Asia (Advantour, Saiga Tours, Stantours) offer Turkmenistan tours from 3,890 euros per person for 19 days all-inclusive excluding flights. Short stays of 7-10 days can go down to around 1,500-2,000 euros excluding flights. Paris-Ashgabat flights (with mandatory stopover, often Istanbul) cost between 550 and 1,100 euros round trip depending on the season.

Extra: the entrance tax of 12 USD, the hotel tax of 2 USD per night, and any agency fees for the invitation letter (about 50 USD). Take cash in euros or dollars: credit cards only work in the major hotels in Ashgabat.

Where to go

Ashgabat, the marble capital

Listed in the Guinness Book of World Records for its largest concentration of white marble buildings, Ashgabat is a city unlike anything else. Built from scratch under the presidency of Saparmyrat Niýazow (nicknamed Türkmenbaşy, the "leader of the Turkmen"), and then expanded under his successor, the capital stretches along multi-lane avenues lined with palaces, fountains and statues. Real life beats behind this marble façade, in markets, parks and small neighborhood restaurants. The Tolkutchka Market, on the outskirts, is the only place where the city reveals its true nature: hand-embroidered carpets, Akhal-Teke horses (national breed), traditional clothing and slippers.

The Gates of Hell, Darvaza

260 kilometres north of Ashgabat, in the heart of the Karakum region, the Darvaza crater has been burning continuously since 1971. The night spectacle is unbelievable: the orange light illuminates the black sand in total silence, punctuated by the dull rumble of the gas blazing. Arriving at the end of the afternoon, camping on the edge of the crater and watching for the dawn that draws the dunes to infinity, this is a night that cannot be forgotten. The track from the main road (about 15 km) requires a 4x4 vehicle.

Merv, the great forgotten of the Silk Road

Merv was, in the twelfth century, one of the most populous and sophisticated cities in the world. Today, its ruins extend over several square kilometers in the desert, on the edge of the modern city of Mary. Five superimposed cities tell two millennia of history: the Parthian Gyaur-Kala, the Abbasid city, and the jewel of the site, the mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, whose turquoise dome can be seen for miles. Merv has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.

Köneürgench, the minarets of the North

500 kilometres north of Ashgabat, in the arid region of Dashoguz, the ruins of the ancient capital of the Khorezmian Empire stand their minarets and mausoleums in a landscape of flat plains. Genghis Khan razed the city almost entirely in 1221, but what remains is striking: the Kutlug-Timur minaret (60 metres high, 14th century) is the largest medieval minaret in Central Asia still standing. UNESCO site since 2005.

Our itineraries

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

The visa is mandatory for French nationals and cannot be obtained without a letter of invitation (LOI) beforehand. The complete process:

1. Contact an approved agency in Turkmenistan (Advantour, Saiga Tours, Stantours) to obtain the LOI from the Migration Service (3 to 4 weeks).
2. Submit the visa application at the Turkmenistan embassy in Paris, or present yourself on arrival at Ashgabat airport with the LOI.
3. Pay the entrance fee of 12 USD upon arrival.
4. Register with the Migration Service within 3 days (the hotel usually does this).

Passport valid for at least 6 months after the date of return. Do not photograph government, military or official buildings under any circumstances.

Official source:diplomatie.gouv.fr/turkmenistan

Getting around

Distances are great in Turkmenistan, and the public transport network is limited. The vast majority of tours are done by 4x4 minibus with driver and guide provided by the agency. The Ashgabat-Darvaza route takes 4 hours (4x4 recommended). The road to Merv (Mary) takes about 6-7 hours from Ashgabat, or 1h30 by domestic plane (Turkmenistan Airlines serves Mary and Türkmenbashi). Road checkpoints are frequent: always carry your documents with you.

Culture and uses

Turkmenistan is a conservative society with a strong Turkmen national identity. Here are the essential rules:

• Dress code: shoulders and knees covered in public spaces, mosques and historical sites. This rule applies to both women and men.
• Photography: forbidden in front of presidential palaces, ministries, barracks and strategic equipment. If in doubt, ask your guide.
• Political criticism: absolutely refrain from any critical comments about the government or the president, even in private with your guide.
• Religion: mostly Sunni. The mosques are accessible to visitors with appropriate attire.
• Gratuities: not mandatory but appreciated. 5 to 10% in restaurants, a few dollars to guides.
• Alcohol: on sale in large hotels and some grocery stores, but discreet in the public space.

Frequently asked questions