Montenegro

Why Montenegro

There are countries that keep their promises at first sight. Montenegro, on the other hand, surpasses them. Arrival in Tivat in good weather: under the wing of the plane, a bay cut like a fjord, mountains plunging into lapis lazuli water, red tile roofs tightly packed at the foot of medieval ramparts. It's not a computer-generated image. It's Kotor, and it's been around since the twelfth century.

Montenegro's strength lies in a geographical paradox. In less than three hours' drive, you go from the fine sandy beach of Sveti Stefan to peaks over 2,500 metres swept by the winds of the Durmitor. The Tara canyon, deeper in some places than the Grand Canyon of Colorado, opens up to a few dozen kilometres of vineyards that descend towards Lake Skadar. Nowhere else in Europe does this density of emotions hold in a country the size of a French department.

Montenegro has not yet succumbed to the standardization of tourism. Behind the summer animation of Budva, fishing villages preserve their traditional boats. Orthodox monasteries clinging to limestone cliffs have resisted since the Middle Ages. And the Montenegrin table, sincere and generous, with its smoked prsut, its Njeguski cheese and its red Vranac from Skadar, has nothing to envy to the great Balkan cuisines.

When to go

Montenegro can be visited all year round, but each season calls for a different trip.

May and Juneare the favorite months of connoisseurs: the coast is deserted or almost, the sea reaches 21-22°C, the bougainvillea explodes with color and the prices are reasonable. It is the best season to combine beach and mountain, both at their best.

July and Augustguarantee sun and 26°C seas, but Kotor and Budva are invaded by cruise passengers from 10am. Coastal accommodation can be booked several months in advance and prices are at their peak. If you're travelling in high season, opt for early arrivals in the old towns and a trip to the Durmitor to take a breather.

Septemberis often cited as the best month by regulars: the sea is still warm (24°C), crowds are retiring, prices are dropping by 20 to 40%. The autumn light on the Bay of Kotor is particularly beautiful.

OctoberIdeal for nature and culture tours. The lakes of the Durmitor are orange in colour, Cetinje and the Lovcen can be visited without crowds. On the coast, the temperatures remain mild (20-21°C).

Winteris the little-known high season: Kotor under light snow is mesmerizing, and the February Carnival is one of the most authentic events in the Eastern Mediterranean. The resort of Kolašin in the Durmitor welcomes skiers from January to March.

How much does it cost

Montenegro uses the euro, which simplifies budget management. The country is significantly cheaper than France or Croatia, except in the high coastal season when prices are similar to those of the most touristic Balkans.

Expect to pay between 45 and 90 euros per person per day for a self-catering arrangement (bed and breakfast or 3-4 star hotel, meals in a local restaurant, travel). In the very touristy areas of Kotor and Budva in July and August, the budget can go up to 150-200 euros.

A full meal in a konoba (local tavern) costs 10-18 euros per person, including drink. Coffee costs 1.50 to 2 euros. Entrance fees to the sites (Kotor City Walls, Cetinje Museums) range from 3 to 8 euros. The Durmitor National Park can be reached with a daily entrance fee of about 5 euros.

A one-week organized tour with half board starts from 1,100 euros per person excluding flights (Del-Tour, Visages du Monde, 2026). A Paris-Tivat return flight starts at 68 euros in low season, 200-280 euros in July-August.

Where to go

Montenegro can be discovered in two large travel areas, complementary and contrasting.

The Adriatic coast and the Bay of Kotorconcentrate most of the historical heritage and seaside attractions. Kotor is the unmissable anchor point: its medieval ramparts that climb 260 meters above the bay, its Venetian palaces and its UNESCO-listed old town alone justify the trip. An hour's drive to the south, Budva brings its turquoise beaches and fortified old town to life. Further on, the islet of Sveti Stefan, transformed into a luxury resort but photographable from the corniche above, is the postcard image of the country.

Halfway between the coast and the mountains, Cetinje, the former royal capital, and Lake Skadar are worth a stop. Cetinje for its unexpected museums in Belle Époque palaces; Skadar for its Dalmatian pelicans, lake vineyards and monasteries on islets.

The mountainous interior, centered on the Durmitor, is Montenegro's great revelation for travelers who take the time to go there. The national park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, combines alpine hiking, dizzying canyoning and rafting on the Tara River in a Yugoslav western setting. Zabljak, at 1,450 meters above sea level, is a simple and pleasant base for two or three days in the mountains.

Our itineraries

Three travel logics are necessary for Montenegro: the classic coastal tour focused on Kotor and Budva, the grand tour that goes up to the Durmitor, or the nature circuit for walkers and lovers of wild landscapes.

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

Montenegro is not a member of the European Union or the Schengen Area, but French nationals enter freely without a visa for up to 90 days. For a stay of less than 30 days, a valid national identity card is sufficient. Beyond that, a valid passport is required, with a minimum validity of 3 months after the date of departure.

Please note: Anyone staying in Montenegro must register with the local police within 24 hours of arrival. In practice, this formality is completed automatically by your hotel, hostel or apartment owner when you check in.

For non-French visitors: nationals of all Annex II Schengen countries benefit from the same visa exemption.

Getting around

By plane:Two international airports serve the country. Tivat (TIV), 6 km from Kotor, is the ideal coastal airport to start a tour from the bay. Podgorica (POD), the capital, is a 1h30 drive from the coast. Direct flights from Paris (and from Lyon, Marseille, Bordeaux depending on the season) in 2 to 2 hours 30 minutes. Air Montenegro, Ryanair and Wizz Air operate the route.

By car:Essential for freely exploring the interior of the country, the Durmitor and Lake Skadar. The national roads are in good condition; the mountain passes (especially the Kotor-Cetinje road via the Lovcen) are narrow, barrier-free and sporty driving. Cautious speed, priority at blind bends. Valid French driving licence.

By bus:Regular lines connect Kotor, Budva, Herceg Novi, Podgorica and Zabljak. Comfortable and cheap (5 to 15 euros depending on the distance). Reduced frequency to the Durmitor outside the high season.

By taxi and applications:Taxis are available in all cities. Prefer licensed taxis or the InDriver app (active in Montenegro). Negotiate the price before getting into the tourist areas.

Culture and uses

Montenegro is a predominantly Orthodox country, although deeply tolerant and open to tourism. Some useful landmarks:

Language:Montenegrin (very close to Serbian, using the Latin and Cyrillic alphabets) is the official language. In tourist areas, English is commonly spoken. Some popular words:hvala(thank you),Dobar Dan(hello),izvinite(excuse me).

Meals:Lunch is the main meal, often copious and boozy. The konoba serve generous local cuisine. Outside the tourist areas, restaurants may close in the middle of the afternoon. Service is not included in the bill: leaving 10% is good use.

Dress code:Beachwear acceptable on the waterfront, but shoulder and knee coverage is expected to enter monasteries and Orthodox churches. Bring a scarf or shawl.

The beaches:Unlike Croatia, Montenegro has real sandy beaches (Bécici, Sveti Stefan, Ulcinj in the south). Some beaches are paid in high season (deckchairs and umbrellas included for 10-15 euros).

Frequently asked questions