Lithuania

Why Lithuania

There are countries that you think you know before you set foot there, and countries that overturn all conventional wisdom. Lithuania belongs to the second category. Mention it in a conversation and you will get a polite silence, perhaps the vague evocation of a Baltic country somewhere between Poland and Finland. Come back to it, and you will have nothing else to tell.

Vilnius is the main reason for this shift. The capital is home to one of the best-preserved old baroque cities in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Seventy churches, bell towers that pierce the morning mist, gently sloping alleys between cream and ochre buildings, and above all this, the reddish tower of Gediminas Castle standing on its hill. It is not a city frozen in a museum: the district of Uzupis, self-proclaimed "Independent Republic" by its artist inhabitants, displays its frescoes and its constitution displayed in 47 languages on a polished metal wall.

But Lithuania does not stop in Vilnius. To the west, it unfolds a string of singular experiences: Trakai Castle on its lake, rising between the pine trees like an image from a medieval fairy tale; the Hill of Crosses near Šiauliai, covered with more than 100,000 crosses placed as a sign of resistance and faith, which stops you on the side of the road and never lets go; and, at the end of the country, the Curonian Spit, a 52 km long spit of sand wedged between the Baltic Sea and the lagoon, with its 60-metre-high dunes and fishing villages with facades painted blue and red. Two UNESCO sites in a single country the size of Brittany and Île-de-France combined: emotional density is rare.

When to go

Lithuania has a strong continental climate, with cold winters and mild, short summers.

May and Juneare the favorite months of discerning travelers. Temperatures reach 18 to 23°C, the days are long (the sun sets after 10 p.m. in June), the crowds remain reasonable, and prices have not yet taken off. The forests are bright green, ideal for national parks and lakes.

July and August: the real Baltic summer, hot (22 to 25°C) but also the rainiest. The beaches of the Curonian Spit are at their maximum: the Baltic Sea reaches 18 to 20°C, enough for swimming. Vilnius lives in the open sky, crowded terraces and music festivals. Book accommodation and ferries to Nida in advance.

Septemberis often the best surprise: tourists leave, the autumn light gilds the bell towers of Vilnius, the forests start to scorch and prices drop. One of the most photogenic times for the old town.

OctoberSuitable for lovers of autumn nature: Lithuania's colourful forests are spectacular. But the rains are becoming frequent (109 mm in October in Vilnius) and the temperatures drop quickly.

Winter (November to March): severe cold, snow likely from December to February. The winter atmosphere of Vilnius under the snow is however one of the most romantic in Europe. The Christmas market in the Cathedral Square is a reference.

How much does it cost

Lithuania is one of the most affordable destinations in the European Union. The euro has been the national currency since 2015, eliminating any currency risk.

Expect to pay between €55 and €100 per person per day for a comfortable trip: accommodation in a good hotel or a charming gîte, meals in local restaurants (€15-25 per meal in the restaurant with a drink), transport by bus or train, and entrance fees to the sites (usually between €5 and €12).

A lunch in a traditional Lithuanian bistro costs 8-12 euros. The local beer (Švyturys, Kalnapilis) costs 2-3 euros in the bar. Tickets to Trakai Castle, the Museum of Occupations or the Hill of Crosses are between 5 and 10 euros. The Curonian Spit is subject to an entrance fee for vehicles (about 15 euros in high season) but remains free for cyclists and pedestrians.

A 7-day organized tour from France starts from 700 euros per person excluding flights. A Paris-Vilnius return flight varies between 80 euros in low season and 220 euros in the middle of summer.

Where to go

Lithuania can be visited along a natural west-east axis, with Vilnius as its anchor point and the Curonian Spit as its conclusion.

Vilniusis the unmissable heart of any trip. Its 70 bell towers, UNESCO-listed Baroque Old Town, hilltop castle, and Uzupis district make for one of the most cohesive urban experiences in Northern Europe. Plan on a minimum of three nights to get the hang of it.

Trakai, 30 km from Vilnius, is the most beautiful excursion in the country: a 14th-century Gothic castle set on a lake, surrounded by forests, which can be reached from the capital in 40 minutes. Half a day is enough for the round trip, but an overnight stay allows you to see the site at dawn in the mist.

Kaunas, the former capital of the interwar period, surprises with its lightness. Its 1.6 km pedestrian street, its remarkable art deco architecture and its Devil's Museum (a unique collection of works representing the devil in folk art) make it an offbeat and sincere stopover, 80 km west of Vilnius.

Šiauliai and the Hill of Crossesare in a special register. The site is difficult to describe: between a memorial, a place of pilgrimage and a collective art installation, it is deeply striking. The visit at sunrise is recommended.

Klaipeda, Lithuania's only seaport, is the gateway to the Curonian Spit. Its old town of Germanic architecture is worth half a day before taking the ferry.

Nida and the Curonian Spitform the most exotic finale in Lithuania: 60-metre-high dunes, a lagoon dotted with migratory birds and a fishing village with summer colours. At least two days to explore everything, ideally by bike on the track along the peninsula.

Our itineraries

There are three formats depending on your desires: the compact tour focused on Vilnius and its surroundings, the grand tour that crosses the country from east to west to Courland, or the slow travel version for nature and cycling enthusiasts.

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

Lithuania has been a member of the European Union and the Schengen Area since 2004. French nationals are free to enter with their valid national identity card or passport. There is no specific minimum validity period, but the document must cover the entire stay.

For visitors from outside the European Union: a Schengen visa is required depending on nationality. It is valid for all Schengen countries. Lithuania is the eastern border of the Schengen area: check the instructions of your embassy if you plan to pass through the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (which is rare in a standard tourist circuit).

The currency has been the euro since January 1, 2015: no exchange necessary for French travelers. ATMs are available in all cities and credit cards are accepted almost everywhere.

Getting around

By plane:Vilnius Airport (VNO) is served from Paris-Charles-de-Gaulle by several companies with direct flights (Air Baltic, Ryanair, Wizz Air depending on the season). Direct flight in 2h30 to 3h. Kaunas Airport (KUN) also receives Ryanair flights from several French cities.

By long-distance bus:Lux Express and Eurolines provide comfortable connections (reclining seats, wifi) between Vilnius, Kaunas, Šiauliai and Klaipeda. Very affordable rates (8-20 euros depending on the route). Online booking recommended in high season.

By train:The Lithuanian railway network (LTG Link) is less developed than the bus but connects Vilnius to Kaunas in 1 hour 20 minutes and to Klaipeda in 3 hours 30 minutes.

By car:Recommended for exploring the Hill of Crosses, regional parks and rural areas at your own pace. Roads in good condition, signage in Lithuanian and Latin. Drive on the right, speed limit of 90 km/h on the road and 130 km/h on the motorway. Drinking and driving: zero tolerance (legal level: 0.04 g/l).

On the Curonian Spit:The ferry from Klaipeda to Smiltynė takes 10 minutes (departs every 30 to 60 minutes, free for pedestrians and bicycles, car toll). The isthmus has a 52 km cycle path from Smiltynė to Nida, which is the best way to discover it.

Culture and uses

Lithuania is a country with a strong national identity, proud of its language (one of the oldest living Indo-European languages), its culture and its independence regained in 1990 after the Soviet occupation.

Language:Lithuanian is the official language, which is distinctly different from the other Baltic languages and its neighbours. In cities and tourist areas, English is commonly spoken by people under 40 years of age. Some popular words:Labas(hello),ačiū(thank you),Prašau(please).

Meals:Lithuanian cuisine is generous and comforting. Don't miss out on cepelinai (potato dumplings stuffed with meat, in the shape of an airship), šaltibarščiai (hot pink cold beetroot soup, served in summer), kibinai (Trakai Karaite puff pastries) and Lithuanian rye black bread served with garlic cottage cheese. The portions are plentiful, the prices reasonable.

Tips:They are not automatic but appreciated. Rounding up to 10% in restaurants is the norm in cities. In cafes and taxis, rounding up to the next amount is sufficient.

Places of worship:Lithuania is predominantly Catholic. The many churches in Vilnius can be visited freely during the day. Proper attire is expected (shoulders and knees covered) to enter places of worship.

The relationship to history:Lithuanians have a vivid memory of the Soviet and Nazi occupations. The Museum of Occupations and Struggles for Freedom in Vilnius (former KGB prison) is one of the most poignant in Europe. Approach these topics with respect and curiosity.

Frequently asked questions